After the demise of one of the wheels of the Roland Traveller, I decided to look for another and thought it might be useful to write down my experiences.
- 2021-12-11: Addition about more issues with the Roland traveller, and about changes in the later version compared to mine.
- 2021-4-7: Added the information from the reply from Wike to my email about their trailers.
- 2021-3-21: I made a list that you may find interesting, with replies (or non-replies) by companies to my emails.
- 2021-3-21: I updated the section on rules, this is a complex topic because it is not uniform across the EU.
- 2021-3-15: Information from Carry freedom added to the information on these trailers.
- 2021-3-14: I enquired with Wike and Carry freedom about some of their products, esp. the specifications, such as the exact width of the Y-small/large including wheels. When I get answers I will add that to the relevant sections.
- Use of a trailer vs. panniers
- Bike trailers that I used
- Overview of points to keep in mind in selecting a trailer
- Optimal size: inner height
- Optimal size: inner width and length, determined from what you may want to transport
- Width of obstacles such as doors, garden gates, traffic gates
- Hitch types
- Regulations (for trailers, and for using them)
- Cargo trailers: Listing of some that seem interesting and good quality, and DIY
- Ready made (though with flatbeds you may wish to add your own structure on top, so some DIY is still possible or even needed depending on your preferences)
- DIY kits and parts to make your own trailer
- Some examples of cargo trailers that don't appeal for reasons of price, quality, design, size
Use of a trailer vs. panniers
I always have panniers on my daily bike, which is enough for groceries, taking clothes + backpack on a bike ride to famliy, etc. But a trailer is useful to transport bigger stuff (I took for example 2 old dishwashers to the local recycling centre with one of the trailers, picked up building materials from a DIY store, etc. which other people would do with a car, but I'm not interested in cars), or a small child, or even 2 children, and dogs.
You can use a trailer for children to transport boxes too by removing the seat, but I will get to that further on.
What I have used a trailer for is to transport stuff that other people would transport with a car, but as I'm not interested in cars I prefer to use a bike trailer..
You can also use a bike trailer for touring. I have not done so though I briefly owned a single wheel bike trailer for this purpose, the Bob Ibex.
Bike trailers that I used
- Columbus bike trailer: Cargo trailer.
I bought this trailer long ago, 2nd hand. I don't have it any longer. The first one was stolen, then I bought a replacement which I sold after buying the Roland Traveller which I thought would be roomy enough. Selling it was a mistake not just with regard to the size, esp. the limited height of the Traveller, but also because of all the issues I had with it)
Example from a for sale ad (I will see if I can find pictures on my HD with the one I had):
Size (inside): ca. 89 cm x 49 cm wide x 40 cm high. (see below).
Width with wheels: probably ca. 75 cm
Blue PVC coated cloth. The attachment to the bike is via a ball joint which is attached to the seatpost, directly via a quick release or on a mount on the seat post.
Good points: Very roomy. I looked in my email archive and found the advertisement responses which mentioned the dimensions, which were said to be:
- Ad 1: 90 cm x 50 cm with height not mentioned,
- Ad 2: 89 cm x 49 cm with a height of 40 cm.
The height in particular made it much better than the Roland Traveller.
Issues: Movement forward/backward of what you transport from the non solid construction as it's just a large piece of very strong cloth. The bottom plate from wood wasn't included by default but an option (or you could make one yourself). Stuff lying on that bottom plate would move back and forth with the plate. There was ditto movement from the ball joint, all such joints have a lot of play.
At higher speeds, ca. 35 km/h and up while riding unloaded I would get some left-right movement (fishtailing), esp. with a side wind which made me have to slow down. This may have been caused by the wheels being not quite in line and/or by the fact that it catches more wind than a trailer of lower height.
- Bob Ibex: Single wheel, suspension, trailer for touring.
Picture of the one I had:
I bought this trailer several years ago, 2nd hand to try out if it would be useful for my purposes.
Good points: The single rear wheel means you can ride with it at any speed through curves (with a normal bicycle, with a tricycle there may be issues from this due to stress on the trike's frame...). This is different from 2 wheeled trailers. I like to ride fast and the Columbus and Roland 2 wheel trailers toppled in curves when I went too quickly. You need to slow down to ca. 20 km/h for tight curves.
Mount: Mounts on the rear axle with a special skewer. The mounting system has no play.
Issues: Single wheel means it's unstable to pack stuff into/onto (it would be better if it had a front dual leg kickstand). I would only use such a trailer for touring, not for transporting stuff, though for touring I'd still go with just panniers (which is why I sold it)..
- Roland Traveller: Cargo trailer.
I bought this trailer a few years ago new.
Size (inside): 72 cm long, 49 cm wide, ca. 30 cm high.
Width with wheels: ca. 69 cm (this is a good size so you can take it easily through doors into the house, or through garden doors/gates)
Weight: 12.2 kg.
Good points: The hitch connection is fine. Much better than the ball joint types with lots of play that are common on older trailers.
Issues: - Breaking of a bolt at the attachment plate of the hitch while not having used any heavy loads! So I drilled a 2nd hole and used a 2nd bolt to fix it to spread the load but the plate which had already started deforming, then deformed even more... This shows the issues with load distribution and that this design of attachment is bad.
- The wheels have welded spokes, these cannot deal with heavy loads that cause strong sideways forces in curves and once they get deformed they cannot be fixed. A newer version of the Traveller uses normal spoked wheels, but I would still not buy the new version of this trailer.
- It is too small (inside: 72 x 49 cm, 30 cm high, the height is especially limiting).
- When the box is packed full, the plastic 'cloth' on the sides often rubbed the wheels (there should have been a hard section there to prevent the stuff you transport to bulge out into the wheels).
- It was very hard to put on the plastic on the sides, it was too tight.
- The steel bottom plate makes it very noisy over bumps and especially on bad roads.
- If you take off the wheels, the axles will stick out, far inferior for storage to the types that use stub axles. [ Perhaps this has been changed in the later version with proper laced wheels? ]
- The arm was attached with 1 bolt which broke after several rides with moderator to low loads. So I drilled a 2nd hole in the steel plate to the position where you could fix the drawbar (NL: 'dissel', DE: 'deichsel') for use as a handcart. The later version looks to still have only 1 bolt fixing there.
- The axles are welded on, and one of these got bent after a while. I bent it back, but what if it breaks? Then you can throw it away or you need to use a welder. A bolted on part would have been far better.
- The top awning can only be placed such that it is flush with the top frame. Why are there no hooks higher up on the frame so that you attach the rubber bands there which wouldn't make it weather proof from the sides but would allow you to transport bigger things while using the awning to keep the load fixed inside the trailer.
Due to all the problems, after the crash where 1 wheel totally disintegrated, I took it to recycling and kept a few parts for use as spares on another trailer.
- Burley Solo: Trailer for 1 child.
Size: ca. 82 x 43 cm, height varies up to ca. 55 cm.
Width with wheels: ca. 70 cm (this is a good size so you can take it easily through doors into the house, or through garden doors/gates)
Weight: ca. 8.6 kg.
Issues: None so far.
Comments: I bought this 2nd hand for temporary use, in a month or 2 I will give it to a relative for its intended purpose... After that perhaps I will buy a new cargo trailer or build one. More on that further on.
The size is quite useful because of the height, I can easily transport several bicycle wheels, larger boxes also fit easily. The rear compartment behind the seat is quite big, which is useful when using the trailer for its intended purpose.
- 2022: frame+wheels from a Winther person trailer: In summer 2022 I bought a 2nd hand trailer frame+wheels from a Winther person trailer which has some sort of suspension, but very stiff. I will add pictures and more information.
- 2022: Croozer Travel: In autumn 2022 I bought a 2nd hand Croozer Travel. I used it a bit and some aspects such as how the wheels and hitch are stored for minimal size are nice. I had to do some modifications to actually make the axles release as the inserts were too small, both the mount points for riding with it and the inserts in the wooden surface to store the wheels. The axles are 12.7mm which is an annoying size as the bearings are no so common, less so than for 12mm axles. So I had to find something to make the holes bigger and I used a router bit of 12.7mm in reverse (forward would be far too agressive). I will add pictures and more information.
Overview of points to keep in mind in selecting a trailer
Optimal size: Total width (determined by the width of obstacles such as doors, garden gates, traffic gates)
Note The widths of doors and gates are measured not between the frame but such that any hindrance from the doors is included (such as when it can't fully open and the width of the door takes away from the opening width):
Bridge to my house: 1.01m
Width of garden gate at relative 1: 83 cm
Width of garden gate at relative 2: To be measured.
Door to shed: 76 cm.
Back door: 90 cm
Front door 83 cm
Road under a bridge narrowed recently from a road for cyclist + cars into a road only for cyclists, with 2 separate lanes for each direction for cyclists. Each lane is ca. 1.70m wide so this is no issue at all for trailers.
Road with 2 narrow sections where cyclists can ride: 1.00 m. This is the maximum of trailer width in NL and if the trailer is that wide you need to aim it perfectly! You could ride in the middle of the road there and avoid the narrow passage, but you then may need to stop for motorised traffic to pass so I suggest ca. 80 cm as a useful maximum width for trailers in NL so that you can easily ride everywhere.
Width between bollards: To be measured in a few places. These are likely no less than 1.00m.
A total width less than 75 cm means you can get it through most doors, garden gates/doors. 70 cm is perhaps optimal for this, not too wide and narrow enough to get through gates. 75 cm is about the useful maximum, more than that and you may get issues.
Optimal size: Inner height (determined by what you may want to transport
For useful transporting of not just small but also from time to time bigger items I would consider a height of 40 cm of the inside box (in case it is not a bare platform trailer, such as the Carry freedom Y, Roland Carrie M) to be the minimum. This comes from my experiences with the Roland Traveller (30 cm high), and the Columbus trailer (40 cm high).
Optimal size: Inner width and length (determined by what you may want to transport)
I will give some examples of what I would want to transport:
- House moving boxes: type 1: 49 cm x 40 cm x 32 cm high
- House moving boxes: type 2: 49 cm x 34 cm x 38 cm high
- House moving boxes: type 3: 48 cm x 32 cm x 33 cm high
- Box in which my printer arrived: 58 x 52 cm x 50 cm high
- Large box in which my travel trolley bag came: 74x47 cm x 45 cm high
- Large box that contained another order: 52x67 cm x 38 cm high.
- The largest box I have laying around in length is ca. 81 cm long.
From these sizes, and how to stow them, which useful size would that give?
1. Take house moving box 1, sideways, to put 2 on a trailer, this means 49 cm * 80 cm.
2. Taking the other big boxes it would be nice to have a width of 52 cm, and a length of 81 cm to be able to transport them flat in the trailer.
3. To accomodate all these: 81 cm long x 52 cm wide.
4. Add 1 cm extra for a bit of extra room which gives: 82 cm long x 53 cm wide
That size should be useful for many purposes, and 82x53 cm is possible while keeping the total width within 75 cm.
Now to height: I found the height of 40 cm that the Columbus trailer was very useful (you can easily transport bicycle wheels for example, which stay stable within the box because of that height, but it was also useful to stack various boxes on top of each other), so I suggest the minimum inner dimensions of a bicycle trailer for useful transporting of bigger items:
82 cm long x 53 cm wide x 40 cm high
This is just a bit wider and a bit longer and a lot higher than the Roland Traveller, which I found was not quite long enough and esp. not high enough.
A variable size box could be useful, which is possible for example by making 2 size boxes that are to be mounted on a flatbed trailer.
Wheel size and ground clearance, ride quality
For a rough general estimate of ground clearance I will deduct ca. 5 cm from the axle centre for tubing and hitch mount on the bike trailer.
- 305mm rims (ca. 39 cm wheel with a 40 mm tyre ('16')), these give a height of the axle of ca. 19 cm and a ground clearance of ca. 14 cm.
- 406mm (ca. 49 cm wheel with a 40 mm tyre ('20')), these give a height of the axle of ca. 22 cm and a ground clearance of ca. 17 cm.
- There are trailers with wheels with 559mm rims ('26'), these give a height of the axle of ca. 32 cm and a ground clearance of ca. 27 cm.
To put this in perspective, my bicycle has a ground clearance of pedal/crank when it's down, of ca. 10.5 cm, so all these are quite enough in most situations, even going over speedbumps.
Smaller wheels mean a lower centre of gravity which means more stability in curves, and as the wheels are smaller they can withstand sideways forces better so for heavier loads smaller wheels have advantages. With those smaller wheels the ground clearance is still good enough for the obstacles that I encountered.
I found the ride quality fine with small wheels. I also never felt the need for suspension.
With heavy loads of 80 kg and more I noticed when going up hills with low gears that even with a hitch that has little play, you get forward-backward movement of the trailer which is caused by the non-continuous pedalling forces. With a typical low quality ball-joint type hitch attached to the seat post this is worse, it happens quite noticeably with almost any load on flat terrain, caused by the play in the ball joint which is significant. There are better hitches for mounting there that have almost no play, but this problem is about the common type that you can find. I don't recommend such hitches.
- Ball joint, old style on stea post: A lot of play, which you notice when accelerating and/or pullong a heavy load in forward/backward motion with noise in the joint. Also has as disadvantage for going uphil of a strong force pulling quite high, which could perhaps result in the front wheel of the bike lifting up with heavy loads uphil.
- A big spring as the joint, usually for axle mounts. E.g. used with the Roland Traveller.
- A plastic connector that can deform a bit giving the required small sideways and up/down movements. Also usually for axle mounts. Works well, I like it better than the spring of the hitch of the Roland Traveller. E.g. used with the Burley Solo.
More to come, including pictures...
Regulations (for trailers, and for using them)
- Width is max 1.00 m for NL. For Germany the proposed maximum was 1.00 m but that never became official so the max width is same as for motor vehicles. There is a good reason to suggest that the 1.00m maximum for moped trailers means this is also the maximum for bicycle trailers, but on the other hand there is no rule for bicycle trailers and thus the general maximum can be used (which is more than for trailers for mopeds!). This is an interpretation issue, and both uses are common: usually restrictively (you are not allowed something unless the rules state it is allowed), but sometimes permissively (you are allowed something unless it is expressly denied, e.g. parking signs stating a motorhome may not stay for a night on a parking place. For parking any vehicle is normally allowed as it would be silly to state all vehicle types that may stay there on parking signs, but in some places such vehicles are not welcome as it is felt they should go to campings, and so parking places in some spots where such vehicles are often placed for overnight stays are then denied that in future with 'overnight parking for motorhomes denied' signs. I will go into this topic in more detail soon, including issues with camping/wild camping soon on another page I am preparing, on trailers for travelling).
- For NL/DE (but presumably similar in most countries): You need a taillight, rear reflectors, side reflectors on the wheels when riding in the dark or conditions with poor visibility. Active lighting need not be present (mounted) when lighting conditions don't require this lighting to be used. The lighting to be used is standard bicycle lighting, and for Germany needs to be StVZO approved.
For Germany: In 1999 a 'Merkblatt' was published, based on e.g. research by BASt, about the German rules for trailers, which are not incorporated in the rules, i.e. they have not become official. Kirschbaum's StVZO commentary mentions that the maximum width of a trailer 1.00 m can be deduced from the requirements for a trailer for a moped (in the sense that if that is the maximum allowed for them, then why should it be allowed to be more for bicycles?).
The 'Merkblatt' says:
- Allowed towed load behind a bicycle is 40 kg, 80 kg if the trailer has brakes (an automatic brake what in German is called 'auflaufbremse' (a 'running into' brake, i.e. this is activated by the trailer getting closer to the bike, which means that some mechanism needs to be in place in the hitch bar or in the attachment between bike and hitch bar) is possible, it need not be a lever activated brake. I wonder if that works well with heavy load up a hil in which case you get backward/forward movements that will activate the brakes...)
- Max width: 1.00 m
- Max length is 2.00 m (and up to 4.00 m for trailers for the transportation of sports equipment, e.g. kayaks, javelins).
In any case these proposed rules introduced the requirement of having an axle height mount for trailers for children, which is why trailers have almost all become equipped with such mounts even though these rules never became official rules. Such a mount has an advantage of stability esp. when going up hills with a heavy load.
More to come...
The different hitch mounting positions and issues with them
There are several types of mounting position:
- 1. On the seat post: This means a high mounting position. The issue here is that when you brake the trailer will push you, it can push your rear wheel up thus losing traction for braking and you can fall over. I've never experienced this but it is possible.
- 2. At the rear of the bike, behind the rear rack: There is a vertical pivot point usually but the other directions are done at this point. It is also possible to have a totally fixed mount behind the rear wheel with a full freedom mount at that point. The former is usually done for single wheel touring trailers, and the latter is done by some people who made DIY hitches with such a mounting point. The issue here is that in corners your rear wheel can be pushed away by the trailer.
- 3. At the axle: This has several advantages: When braking at an angle such as when going through a corner your bike won't be pushed over in a sideways direction as easily as with a seat post mount (1), and your rear wheel won't be pushed away as easily in a horizontal direction (thus losing traction) as with the behind-the bike hitch point (2).
Cargo trailers: Listing of some that seem interesting and good quality, and DIY
I was looking at DIY too as many cargo trailers are too limited and good quality ones are expensive (often 500 EURO and more). Here is a list of some cargo trailers that I may consider in a few months, listed in order from their features, size, cost, approximately such that the ones that most appeal to me are listed at the start of the list.
Ready made (though with flatbeds you may wish to add your own structure on top, so some DIY is still possible or needed depending on your preferences)
- Carry freedom (Germany): Originally from Scotland (UK), but it's for about 10 years a German company. They make 2 flatbed trailers that can be used to attach stuff to, or you could bolt a box of your own design onto them.
1. The Y small (EUR 330,- for v2.1, EUR 299,- for v2.0). Their specs: Weight 6.4 kg. Maximum box size that can be put onto it according to their specs: 90x49 cm. Total width: 61 cm. New upcoming version 2.2: 6.7 kg and EUR 380,-
2. The Y large (EUR 360,-). Weight: 8.2 kg. Maximum box size that can be put onto it according to their specs: 90x64 cm. Total width: 75 cm. New upcoming version 2.2: 8.4 kg and EUR 410,-
Further, perhaps the Carry leaf could be interesting for grocery shopping, which you could take into a shop (so you don't need to worry about someone stealing it).
- Wike (Canada): ('walk and bike') is a Canadian company which has a EU distribution centre for some of their products in the Netherlands. It has 2 DIY kits (see further on) and various ready to go trailers. The following ready to go trailers seem interesting:
- 1. Wike: Cargo buddy: ca. EUR 275 + VAT. Only in stock in Canada they state, so I suppose postage is hefty. And import duty? Inside dimensions of the box: 79 x 56 x 30.5 (h) cm. Outer width ca. 81 cm from the information on the Wike high sides DIY kit that has the same inner width. This is just about ok in width and length, but I would like it to be a bit higher, I consider 40 cm high the minimum for a useful transport trailer (
an option to get the same trailer but with higher sides is a Wike high sides DIY kit and make the sides higher as per your preference Wike have stopped selling the DIY high sides kit, they told me...). It comes with quality wheels with aluminium hubs, rims and stainless steel spokes. Weight: not stated on the site but Wike told me that it weighs 12kg.
Comments: Good size though I'd like to have the sides a bit higher.
I would go for Wike's DIY high sides kit instead. The DIY high sides kit is no longer sold...
- 2. Wike: Heavy duty flatbed, ca. EUR 210 + VAT, in stock in their centre in NL for EU customers, so for in EU ca. EUR 270 total. you could modify this trailer and mount your own box construction to it (plywood or tubes and then canvas) or use it with a cargo net or something similar. Size: 76 cm long x 56 cm wide, outer width ca. 81 cm, this is just about ok. Weight: 8.6 kg.
Comments: Could be useful, but
I would go with Wike's DIT high sides kit. The DIY high sides kit is no longer sold...
- 3. Wike: City cargo: EUR 112 + VAT + postage (it will be posted from NL for EU countries so no customs duties to add). This seems pretty cheap for a seemingly quality trailer (with aluminium rims, but steel hubs). The inside dimensions of the box: ca. 63.5 cm x 45.7 cm x 38.1 cm. Outer width:?? The length and width are a bit limited, it's smaller than the Roland Traveller in that respect but much higher, which will likely offset that. Weight: 13 kg.
Comments: Because of the low price and because it's without doubt better quality than really cheap trailers such as vidaxl, I'd suggest this or a quality 2nd hand trailer over a cheap low quality new trailer if you want to try out whether a trailer could be useful to you. For me it's not of interest.
- There are a few other special purpose trailers on Wike's site, have a look here.
- Croozer (Germany): Cargo Pakko: This is of reasonable size, innner dimensions 80 x 48 x 40 cm high, this is high enough (one of the few!) but I'd like it a bit wider/longer: Croozer Cargo pakko specs. Price is ca. EUR 420,-
Comments: Pretty good size, lockable hitch (though with any tools you can easily cut through the plastic parts so likely of limited value. With other trailers you could use a small combination lock perhaps to at least delay stealing if you are parking your bike with trailer at a store).
Croozer has a few other cargo trailers which are smaller and for that reason don't appeal to me at all, which cost around 380 euro. There is also a sprung version of the Pakko which costs EUR 520 using deformation springs (same principle as elastomer suspension forks). I don't think that's very useful, I never needed it in any case (on the fairly good roads in NL).
- Roland (Germany): Carrie M: Roland made a crap product with the Traveller, but this may be better. Quite expensive at ca. EUR 500, but it has a large floor (84 cm long x 64 cm wide) and I could mount a box or sides to my wishes (self-built) on it. The metal floor plate is not what I'd want as in the Traveller it makes a lot of noise... Total width is 80 cm which is just a bit too wide for some doors.
- Burley (USA): Nomad: Inside dimensions: 81 cm long x 47 cm wide, height varies, from I'd estimate ca. 25 cm to 47 cm max. This is too small for me, also because in the centre the raised section consists of 2 tubes connecting to each other which means you can't just transport big boxes in it. Further it would need a wooden plate at the bottom fitted to make it sturdy enough. Ca. EUR 350.
DIY kits and parts to make your own trailer
- DIY: Wike has a DIY kit:
- Wike standard DIY kit for ca. EUR 150 + VAT + postage. You can make this as long and as wide (or narrow) as you want... Wike told me that these kits are in stock in their EU centre in NL, so there would be no customs costs and a relatively low postage price to buyers in the EU. In addition to the kit you need 25.4 mm aluminium tubing and you can build your own trailer. I only found 25.0 mm tubing in NL, so would that be an issue? Probably not with the plastic connecting blocks. Addition: Wike told me that it is no problem... For a build see for example Video: WIKE DIY Bike Cargo Trailer Kit.
- DIY: Hinterher (Germany): Hinterher sells quality (expensive) trailers (which don't appeal to me, so I've not listed examples in the above section with ready to use trailers) but also sells the parts to make a trailer. See for the parts you would need Hinterher: Do it yourself and prices are listed in the Hinterher shop.
- DIY: See Video of a build of a trailer with suspension, with links to parts. Note that suspension only works well if the springs are adjusted to the approximate expected load, so this may be of limited value and in general a sprung trailer is not needed.
- DIY: You can do it completely yourself with aluminium tubing + connectors (aluminium or plastic) + wheelchair type single side mount hubs (to find such hubs search for 'stub axle hub'). The one issue if you do this is that you then need to make an axle holder...
I've not decided yet, that will come in a few months, but at this moment the following appeal to me for the given reasons, in creasing order of appeal so the first appeals to me most:
- Carry Freedom Y large: 75 cm wide, just narrow enough to get through every door/gate I'd want to take it and it would give a good platform to build some box on, with tubing + canvas or from wood.
- Wike high sides DIY kit. I could make it to my exact wish in width, length, height.
- Croozer Cargo Pakko. Fairly good size and no need for DIY.
- DIY using axles and wheels from Hinterher.
Update 2023-4-13: In 2022 I bought 2 2nd hand trailers to try out some options. The Croozer Travel, and a trailer frame from a Winther person trailer which has some sort of suspension, but very stiff. I will add pictures and information soon and what I am using them for (which is experimenting).
Some examples of cargo trailers that don't appeal for reasons of price, quality, design, size
Some types that don't appeal to me for some reason, such as low quality, or high quality but too small and/or far too expensive (with features that most people don't need, such as automatic brakes), and/or because of some design decisions, but which you could have a look at for a reference:
- Low quality and cheap: VidaXL (made in China) Trailers from this brand are available in many countries, in Europe, Australia, USA. Ca. 100 EURO for a trailer that has a nice size, and wheels with stub axles that can be removed with a push button, but the bearings are poor from some reviews on amazon.de. You can find similar issues shown in this Video about the issues with a VidaXL trailer and some people needed to do serious DIY to get it to fit together. So it's of rather poor quality... If you want to try a trailer for the first time this could be an option if you are prepared to deal with the issues, or you could buy a 2nd hand trailer of a better brand, or for a better quality option see the small Wike trailer listed above. In any case, this trailer can't be worse than the Roland Traveller!
- Extremely expensive and too wide for the given load area: Tough trailer: From German company Creacon. In a video about bicycle campers the maker of the video said that the price for these trailers is what is needed for 'Made in Germany'. I disagree, further, some of it is overengineered (the fold out mechanism for the front and rear), there are some bad design decisions such as the disc brakes on the outside where they are exposed to e.g. branches you may ride into, and with the dual support for the wheels, wich isn't needed for trailers carrying at most 100 kg, it is too wide, or rather, the usable load area is too narrow for the total width. They do have 'auflaufbremse', i.e. an automatic brake, which is however only useful for transporting heavy loads, so not required for most people. About the size:
1. The 'Tough small' (ca. EUR 1600): load area 41.8 cm x 85 cm, which is too narrow (this is likely to keep the total width within ca. 75 cm, but that's guessing as that width is not listed...). Height of the sides is not listed (their pages have very little useful information) but can be deduced from the load area size with folded out front/rear flaps, to be ca. 25 cm. This is not high enough.
2. The 'Tough center' (ca. EUR 1700) is also too wide for the given load area. And with this one it will likely hinder you going through garden gates, and in between some bollards. Load area: 61.8 cm x 85 cm, length can be extended by folding out the front/rear flaps to 110 cm for 1 flap and and 136 cm (+25 cm/+26 cm, I guess this is from rounding e.g. 25.3 cm becomes 25 cm and 2x 25.3= 50.6 is rounded to 51 however this is inconsistent with their size listing in mm... So a difference front/rear?). From the width I suspect this trailer to be ca. 88 cm wide...
- Structural issues: Burley (USA): Flatbed: The bottom is an issue in being not torsion resistant. You need some sort of bottom plate or other methods to achieve this. I read a comment about this, I think with a youtube video, that the bottom of the commenter's trailer got bent.
- Expensive: Weber (Germany): Kargo comfort: Weber makes nice trailers with 'auflaufbremse' with disc brakes (with the brake discs on the inside contrary to the 'tough' trailers) but 1200 EURO is quite a lot of money. I've never felt the need for such a brake even riding with 80 kg or more. For most people this is not useful.
- Expensive: Robert (Germany) trailer: Robert makes high quality trailers based on the euro pack size, e.g. 80x60 cm flatbed ca. EUR 1200, with automatic brake using drum brakes (Sturmey Archer hubs?). Drum brakes are a better choice than disc brakes for a trailer, simpler, cheaper, more robust. These trailers are overkill for most people...
Last modified: 2023-4-13